How To Be More Energy Efficient

We hear so much about energy efficiency nowadays. Energy efficiency is about saving our environment and saving our money. How we got about practicing energy efficiency isnt always as clear, though. Here, there, are the most frequently asked questions about energy efficiency, and their answers.

The question most often asked is if buying products such as appliances that are specifically designed for energy efficiency cost more than others? The answer is yes and no.

While their initial purchase price is usually higher their energy efficiency reduces the bill to use them, which, over time, generally saves money. Energy efficient products often perform better than their less efficient competition, which means they may also last longer.

Another popular question is where to find products that are designed for energy efficiency and how to recognize them. Recognition is easy. In the U.S. especially those appliances and other products that have been assessed by government professionals and determined to be energy efficient earn what is called an Energy Star, and that Energy Star is displayed on their packaging and on the product itself.

To find products that have proven themselves worthy of the energy-efficiency Energy Star is not difficult at all. In fact most retailers will carry them and most major manufacturers design them. You can also call a hotline that is toll free to find where they can be purchased near you or visit the U.S. governments Energy Star Web site.

Many people ask about energy-efficiency products ability to keep their home comfortable. In other words, will an energy-efficient air conditioner keep them as cool as those not rated for energy efficiency, and will the Energy Star branded heating system actually keep them warm?

The answer is a resounding yes. In fact, in many cases, they improve the comfort level for you and your family by maintaining a constant temperature.

People often ask if, since energy-efficiency helps others, if there is assistance with the extra up-front expense of installing energy efficient appliances and products. The answer is that yes, there certainly is.

Private financial firms offer loans for Energy Star products that have favorable interest rates and longer terms than those for standard cooling and heating equipment. Again, the Energy Star hotline or site will help find these loan providers. You may find as well that your local utility company just might offer you a rebate when you decide to purchase equipment that offers energy efficiency.

Another common question about energy efficiency is about finding the right contractor to install the equipment. There are several things you can do, which hold true for any contractor you seek.

The first is to ask for references and recommendations of those you trust – friends, family, business acquaintances, and coworkers. Search the business directory of your local newspaper or you local Yellow Pages carrier. Eliminate those that arent licensed, bonded and insured.

Once you’ve narrowed down your search to a few choices ask for, and check, references. Check with your Better Business Bureau or the consumer protection agency for your state or county to make sure consumers have not lodged complaints against any of the contractors on your short list. As you inquire of each, ask about their experience and expertise in energy efficiency, and then compare price, service, reputation and warranty.

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Energy Efficiency In Homes

Building energy efficient homes and improving energy efficiency in our homes can increase their value.

Over the past few years, there has been a ground swell of Green building interest by home buyers and builders. In response to the growing demand to conserve energy in our homes, there are several new mortgage programs that allow home buyers to finance the cost of energy improvements into their mortgage, to increase their loan-to-value, or improve their qualifying ratios. Some of the more common improvements that are used to make homes more energy efficient include the addition of new windows, high efficiency heating/cooling systems, and improved insulation. All of these contribute to reduced energy use, and also to making homes quieter, more comfortable, and more desirable.

Mortgage Programs

These programs allow buyers to purchase a more expensive home that has a lower cost of ownership to offset the larger mortgage payment. There are 2 types of financing options available
that cover a variety of scenarios for energy efficient homes.

• Energy Efficient Mortgages (EEM’s) allow borrowers to qualify for a larger loan, using expanded income ratios, sometimes with the same down payment.

• Energy Improvement Mortgages (EIM’s) allow borrowers to include in the mortgage the cost of making an existing home more energy efficient, when they refinance or purchase the home.

These products are available through your local mortgage brokers and banks using FNMA, FHLMC, FHA, and VA guidelines.

EPACT 2005-2008 provides 00 Builder Tax Credit

The Energy Policy Act of 2005 established a federal tax credit for builders that apply to each home that exceeds the energy performance threshold outlined in the 2004 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC2004). Eligible homes must be at least 50% more efficient than homes built to the IECC2004. It is fairly easy for builders to achieve this threshold by building tighter homes, installing high-performance insulation, and sealing duct work. The best way for a builder to find out how to meet EPACT is to consult with a certified RESNET (Residential Energy Services Network) Home Energy Rater. In order for a builder to receive a 00 tax credit, the home must be rated by a RESNET certified rater using IRS approved software. For more information, visit http://www.natresnet.org/taxcredits/default.htm.

What makes a home energy efficient?

The cost of heating and cooling a home represents the largest cost of ownership, outside of the home mortgage expense. Everyone wants a home that is comfortable to live in, and yet the costs associated with reaching a comfortable level can be very high. Energy Efficiency can be defined as the use of products or systems that use less energy to do the same or better job as conventional products. In home construction and performance, there are many areas where energy efficiency can be achieved, to allow you to meet those desired comfort levels.

The EPA’s ENERGY STAR® program has developed a process for evaluating products used in a home, such as appliances, windows, lighting and other products that meet or exceed certain efficiency standards or recommendations. When choosing products for a home, ensure the products meet Energy Star ratings. This can include furnace, air conditioning and water heater performance, replacement of appliances in the home, and installation of energy efficient lighting such as Compact Florescent Lamps (CFL’s).

Other construction design aspects can have a significant impact on the energy performance of a home. Insulation levels should be adequate for the environment, and more importantly, proper installation of the insulation is critical in ensuring it is performing to the expected levels. Air infiltration and leakage can be another area where hidden openings in the building shell can cause heat and cooling losses to occur, reducing the efficiency of the home’s performance.

In addition to performance of individual components in a home, the EPA’s Energy Star Program also works with builders to qualify and certify home performance, to ensure that maximum performance is achieved. ENERGY STAR® qualified homes are designed to be at least 15 percent more energy efficient than homes built to the 2004 International Residential Code (IRC). ENERGY STAR® qualified homes offer homebuyers all the features they want in a new home, plus energy-efficient improvements that deliver better performance, greater comfort, and lower utility bills.

ENERGY STAR® homes have had their energy efficiency independently verified by an inspector known as a Home Energy rater. A HERS Rater will inspect and test the home during construction, and verify that the home meets EPA’s strict guidelines for energy efficiency.

RESNET; Establishes rules for the energy rating industry

In 1995 RESNET was founded to develop a national market for home energy ratings and energy efficient mortgages. One main goal of RESNET was the development of standards for quality of rating services. The standards set the national procedures for home energy ratings, and include testing and accreditation for raters and providers, development of verification processes for homes meeting ENERGY STAR® and energy efficient building standards, as well as meeting local Energy Code compliance.

A certified HERS Rater follows a prescribed standard for how a home is measured, verified and rated, and must comply with national standards to continue to perform certified ratings.

What is an energy audit or HERS Rating

A Home Energy Rating, performed by a Certified HERS Rater, consists of a full visual analysis of components and aspects of the home, along with energy performance testing of air infiltration with a tool called a blower door. Evaluation of home energy bills can also be included. A blower door slightly de-pressurizes the home and determines the amount of air leakage present. The home is compared to a hypothetical reference home which is based on the IECC 2004, and the home is then provided with a rating. The rating can be a numerical HERS rating or a ‘star’ rating based upon ENERGY STAR® requirements.

Along with the actual performance rating, the homeowner will be provided with details on areas of the home that need to be improved, in order to further save energy costs and improve the comfort and efficiency of the home.

Do It Yourself Energy Efficiency Projects: Your Home’s Thermal Envelope (Part 1)

Many people struggling through the tough economy are not going to be able to take advantage of the 2009-10 Energy Efficiency Tax Credit simply because they can’t afford new windows and doors, water heaters, or more insulation. However, there are a few things you can do around your home to air seal it to save money during the winter months and during the summer.

Because of the price and use of energy, architects and builders now design a home to be a “thermal envelope”. That is the sum total of the home’s insulation systems including walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, and doors. These work more effectively with good, tight fits that seal out the weather and air. By having a tight seal on your home’s thermal envelope, the less energy you waste or lose by exchanging it too often with the air outside.

So, with this in mind, let’s start at ground level and work our way up to seal your house.

Moisture Barrier

A moisture barrier (usually plastic sheeting) covers the earth beneath a structure to prevent moisture from infiltrating the structure from the ground. All-wooden structures last years longer if they are kept dry and out of contact with the ground. For a house, not only does it help prevent rot but it also helps keep the drier. Because moisture in the air holds heat, even during the most humid months, a moisture barrier will make your Texas home feel drier and cooler.

Most Texas homes are built on either a slab or have crawl spaces under them. Houses with slab foundations typically have concrete poured on top of a plastic moisture barrier. This limits the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. Homes with crawl spaces, meanwhile, feature a moisture barrier in their crawl spaces. Some older homes do not have one and these can be installed by the home owner very easily.

A moisture barrier is plastic sheeting, usually about 6-8 mils thick and is available at any hardware store, typically in sizes ranging from 25 × 25 feet to 100 × 100 feet. It also need not be one single piece of plastic. As long as the sheets overlap each other by about 6 inches or so, it will be effective.

To install, you will need to know the dimensions of your crawl space and buy enough plastic sheeting to cover the ground in that space. Simply cut the plastic sheeting to cover the earth from wall to wall, laying it flat. You can use either black or clear plastic, but I would use clear because black plastic would make your crawl space feel like a cramped version of Batman’s lair.

You should notice the difference within 24 hours. If your house feels too dry, simply fold back some of the plastic sheeting to expose the earth underneath. Continue adjusting until your home feels the most comfortable to you.

As mentioned, moisture barriers limit the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. The house feels drier: It will be easier to cool in the summer and less likely to develop mold or contribute to wood rot in the winter.

Mudsill and Rim Joists

The next place to check out is the mudsill. The mudsill is the board that is bolted flat on to the top of the foundation wall. An example of one is a 2×8 board bolted onto the final course of cement blocks. It provides a bed to attach the flooring joists and banding boards for the first floor of the house. Depending on how well it is installed, it can let in a lot of cold air and moisture.

Places to look for gaps is where the mudsill is fastened to the foundation. A common building practice now is to put down a plastic foam gasket over the foundation before attaching the pressure treated lumber that will be the mudsill. In older homes, either a paper-backed cellulose material was put down or nothing was used. To find gaps, get as close as possible to the mudsill from the inside and look for daylight shining through between the mudsill and the foundation wall and feel for a draft of cool air.

If your foundation is made of cement blocks, look for the vertical joints between the blocks. When these blocks are put into place, the mortar between the blocks often slumps leaving thin mortar or none at all. Over time as the house settles, holes can appear. While these might be small holes that let through tiny amounts of air, if your home has 10 or 20 of them, you’re letting in a lot of weather and insects. Seal every hole you find with silicon caulk or expanding foam.

Another place along the mudsill to look for is where the rim joists attach. The rim joist (sometimes called “banding joist”) is the piece of wood that closes off the end of the flooring joist or is the last floor joist underneath the exterior wall. The bottom edge is not necessarily an air-tight seal. In fact, I lived in one older house where there was a half-inch gap between the rim joist and mudsill. Now, while this seems small, the gap ran for the entire length of the house: 25 feet. It was the equivalent of leaving a 24 inch by 24 inch window open all the time. Some expandable foam quickly sealed this gap and there was a noticeable improvement in comfort and cost right away.

Windows

If you have double-hung wooden sash windows with storm windows that are drafty, there are several ways to make them more energy efficient.

Make sure the glazing on the glass panes of the sash windows is not cracked or crumbling. The glazing helps hold and seal the glass to the wooden window and thus blocks drafts and quiets rattling – especially from traffic. It also lessens the likelihood that the glass will break if a pet or a child presses against it. Glazing is something of a skilled art. That being said, it’s not that hard to do. Re-glazing a window yourself can save you to 0 or more. All you need is glazing putty (), a putty knife (), some glaziers’ points ( for a box of 100) and some time.

First, remove any old, cracked, or crumbling glazing with a putty knife. Glazing putty dries to be very, very hard and will last decades. It can be loosened with a heat gun, but keep the gun moving or the heat will crack the glass.

When the old putty has been removed, remove all the old glaziers’ points. Now, lift out the pane and set it aside. Sand the channel where the pane fits on the wooden sash. Usually, I apply a thin bead of silicone caulk in this channel before replacing the glass. This helps to seat and seal the glass pane. This especially helps when working on multiple small panes (called “lights”) separated by thin or fragile wooden mullions (also called “muntins”). Next, insert new glaziers points. This is done by using the putty knife to press points into the wooden sash along the glass pane to keep it in place. Take your time so that you don’t break the glass.

Glazing putty can be purchased in either a can or a tube with a shaped tip that fits in a caulking gun. However, it does take some practice to get just the right angle and right amount of putty on the glass. When using the tube mix, keep the 45 degree angled tip steadily against the glass and lay a bead of putty the length of bottom of the pane. If you’re using the putty from the can, roll the putty into long snake (or rope) and place it along the edge of the pane and along the wood. Gently press it into position so that it forms a nice 45 degree angle with the putty knife. The putty is shaped this way so that water runs off the glass to the edge of the window sash instead of into the window pane channel where it can rot the wood.

The next thing to look for is if your windows close snugly. Both the top and bottom window have what is called a “meeting rail”. On the upper window, it is the bottom of the window and on the bottom window it is the top. These meeting rails are shaped so that they mesh together when they close. This helps seat and seal the window properly. Check to see if the bottom window runs firmly – but not tightly – along the window jamb as you close the window. If it’s too loose and wiggles back and forth, it probably won’t seat very tightly when it’s closed. You can use a putty knife to pry out the window jambs and then re-position them to improve how tightly the window will close. You might try adding felt or self-adhesive foam weather stripping. Also make sure you clean out any debris from the window to ensure the window will seat and seal snugly.

As metal storm windows age, the harder they seem to close. This usually happens because of dirt and corrosion. Make sure the window tracks are clean and free of dirt and debris so the window runs smoothly.

Outside, check that the storm window frame is held tightly in place against the wooden window frame. Screws that hold this frame in place might be loose and might need to be replaced or moved to a new spot. Most drafts from storms windows come from where the storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Once you’re certain the storm window frame is secure, lay a bead of caulk into the seam where the metal storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Typically, there are two slots cut into the bottom apron of the storm window frame. Do not seal these. These are weep holes that allow condensation to escape.

If you have modern, double glazed windows (windows with two panes of glass), one of the things to look out for is fogging between the panes. Double glazed windows are made by attaching a pane of glass with adhesive to either side of a half-inch wide aluminum frame either in a vacuum or a very dry environment. It is then a single unit and is installed into a standardized window frame. Fogging is a sign that the seal on the window unit has failed and water vapor has penetrated into the space between the panes. If the fogging is still present in summer, it’s a good guess that acids have also leeched in with the water vapor and have permanently etched the window glass. If the fogging disappears when the window warms, then it’s not too late to treat it. Examine the wood of the window for any discoloration from moisture. Look for peeling, flaking paint or soft, gray-colored wood. If you find some, sand it smooth and then seal it with an oil-based enamel or polyurethane. If the wood is very soft, you might try using an epoxy formulated to penetrate and preserve rotten wood. Be sure to mask the glass first with painter’s tape.

A builder installs a door or window with wedges called shims so that the window can float inside a rough opening in the framing. While this lets the door or window open and close freely as it expands and contracts during the year, it also means a lot of outside air can infiltrate your house by getting in around the window frame if it has not been insulated or if it has been damaged. During the summer, it usually isn’t a noticeable problem. During the winter, though, if you see moisture or mildew there could be a problem with the window frame.

Look outside for damage to the siding and window frame. Look for holes or wet, rotten wood, or even a loose piece of siding. It’s important to clean and seal problems like these quickly, especially if moisture has been getting inside your wall, because the damage will just worsen over time. Rotten or damaged siding can be replaced easily with new pieces from the hardware store. Rotten or damaged window sills should be completely removed and replaced and the inside of the wall inspected for mold, rot, and other damage. However, this is no small job and requires time and skills to complete. It might need the hand of a professional. For an immediate, short-term fix, clean out the rotten wood as best you can and fill the hole with fiberglass auto body putty. This will provide a hard, waterproof barrier against the weather. Be sure to contour and shape it so that it will not interfere with opening and closing the window.

If moisture or rain is getting into your window frame, check to see if any of your rain gutters run over head. Check to see if these are clogged. Also, consider installing drip edging along the top of your windows to help run water around and away from the windows and siding when it rains. After you’ve installed it, be sure to caulk it in place so moisture can’t penetrate behind it.

A lot of folks consider it hideous to put over your windows but it will keep the wind out: clear plastic sheeting. This is probably the easiest temporary energy fix owners of older homes use to keep cold, damp winter weather out. There are two approaches: Apply the clear plastic sheeting to the outside of the window by stapling it to the wood window frame and then nailing lathe over the stapled edge to secure the plastic. Or apply the plastic sheeting to double-sided tape on the inside of the window frame (usually available in kits from the home center). To be sure, neither is an attractive solution. However, if you have an older home with double-hung windows in poor condition, this short-term fix does a lot for only and about 15 minutes of work. In fact, even if your windows close snugly, it might not be a bad idea for a north-facing window that doesn’t have much of a view.

Energy Efficient Window Treatments: “It’s Curtains for You!”

Curtains not only add style, color, and privacy to a room, they also act as an insulating blanket for one of the most thermally conductive parts of the house: the windows. Curtains are even more effective at sealing off a window when they have thermal backing. Thermal backing is usually foam because foam permits water vapor to move through the fabric rather than condensing on the cold side toward the window and causing moisture problems. An additional benefit to thermal curtains is that they help deaden noise from outside that is normally transmitted into the room by the window glass. In the summer, the curtains also block hot sun.

Thermal curtains can be made even more efficient by adding a valance with a top. Usually, window valances conceal the curtain hardware such as the rods and brackets. However, if the valance has a top cover, warm air that would normally circulate down between the cool glass and the back of the curtain is blocked. Valances can be made with plywood and then stained, painted, or covered in fabric.

Another option is a window quilt. These are blanket-like shade that roll down to cover the window. Some are held tightly in place by magnetic strips attached to both the quilt and the window frame.

Finally, one last accessory for the double hung window is the Window Worm. This is a fabric tube about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and is as long as a window is wide. It is stuffed with quilting foam or cloth scraps and laid along where the top and bottom window sashes meet to help keep out drafts. Longer ones weighted with sand can also be made and placed across the foot of doors.

Right now, there are a few things you can do around your home to air seal it to save money during the winter months and during the summer.

As mentioned in Part 1, your home is a ‘thermal envelope’. That is the sum total of the home’s insulation systems: walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, and doors. These work more effectively with good, tight fits that seal out the weather and air. By having a tight seal on your home’s thermal envelope, the less energy you waste or lose by exchanging it too often with the air outside.

Now, we’re going to look at exterior doors, the laundry center, the water heater tank, HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning), attic insulation, attic ventilation and rain gutters.

Presenting The Doors!

We all want our doors to be attractive, secure, and weather proof. Like windows, when they are properly installed and kept in good condition, they can save you energy and money. If your door is hard to close or open, moves the whole door frame when you open or close the door, rattles when it is closed, or you see daylight and feel a draft coming from around it, then your door needs work.

When a door doesn’t close correctly, it obviously fails to seal. If your exterior door is difficult to open or close, the first thing to look for is if something is caught in the door or if something is sticking out from the door frame, such as a screw head not fully tightened against the hinge. Next, determine with a carpenter’s level whether the door is hanging plumb (straight up and down) and if the door jambs are parallel to each other. Sometimes, a screw head not tightened into the hinge can prevent a door from closing properly and over time deform and loosen the door frame or the door. Also, check to see if any hinges move toward or away from the door jamb or if they wiggle. Hinges should be tightly fastened to the door and the door jamb with no other movement except at the hinge joint.

Once I lived in an old house and the back door was hard to close because the whole frame moved with it. It was one of those things I kept putting off to fix. Then one night, I pulled the door shut so hard that I pulled the entire door and door frame out from the wall of the house. I tacked it back in place for the night but the next morning, I settled down to repair it. The original nails had rusted down to the thickness of thread while the wooden shims that kept the door seated properly had rotted because moisture got inside the door frame.

If your door frame moves when you open or close the door, don’t put it off repairing it like I did. Fix it now. First, remove the casing from both the inside of the door and the exterior. Be careful ‘ often in older homes, door casing and other moldings are unique or are no longer available. Sharp-edged casing pry bars are perfect for this. With a little patience and care, you can remove the casing without damaging it too much. A putty knife and a claw hammer are also useful. Again, be patient and careful ‘ you are disassembling not destroying.

After you remove the casing, look for any damage to the wood making up the door frame; such as if it is rotten or split. Check to see if the shims are in place and intact. If everything looks right, check the frame to see if it is plumb. Add shims as needed and check that the door opens and closes correctly. Usually, it is easier to tack a scrap across the door when it’s closed to seat the door frame properly. When it’s plumb and shimmed, carefully nail the frame into place. Next, vacuum debris from the area and seal up seams and gaps with either caulk or expanding foam. Re-fasten the casing and cover up the old nail holes with color-matched wood putty.

If you can close a kleenex in your door and then pull it out easily or if your door rattles from noise or the wind, it means it’s just not seated snuggly. The easiest starting place to for this fix is to add weather stripping. Usually, doors made over the past 25 years have had weather stripping built onto them. But being a door is rough work. Over time, the weather stripping gets stripped from the door. In some cases, the same weather stripping types are still used by the door manufacturer and can be easily replaced. Usually with much older homes, it’s not the case. You’ll be either replacing worn-out weather stripping someone else applied, or you’ll be putting on brand new.

First, measure the gap between the door surface and the door jamb at several places. Add about 1/16 of an inch to this measurement and this will give you a rough thickness of the self-adhesive foam or felt you will need to apply. Typically, I apply the foam stripping to the door jamb. Since the door jamb doesn’t go anywhere there’s less of a chance for something bumping against it and tearing off the foam. The door, on the other hand, is meant to move and will encounter all sort of things in its travels. As mentioned, you want the door to close firmly. Be sure to buy more foam than you will need so you can add and adjust the foam until you have a good seal.

If your door is in too bad of condition to repair, then it really is no longer a matter of weatherization but security. Seriously consider replacing it. Residential exterior doors come in three standard widths: 30, 32, and 36 inches.

Generally, the most insulating material for an exterior door is wood because it doesn’t conduct heat as easily as metal, vinyl, or fiberglass. That being said, most inexpensive wooden doors don’t fare well over time. They wear quickly in the areas that have the most contact (door handles and foot area), their mounting screws can loosen or tear, and depending on the harshness of the weather they can dry out and split. Steel doors provide better security and stand up to wear but they conduct heat. Wood-core steel doors and foam core doors last longer, are stronger, and better insulated. Fiberglass doors usually are the most strong, durable, and well insulating but tend to be more expensive.

Door Sweeps and Door Jambs with Vinyl Weather-stripping

A door’s most drafty area is along the bottom where it meets the door threshold. Most thresholds are aluminum or wooden ridges that meet the bottom of the door and form a seal. However, since the door is constantly being opened and the threshold is being stepped on, the factory-installed weatherization can wear out quickly. It can be quickly and easily replaced with a self-adhesive vinyl strip that hangs down from the bottom edge of the door. You attach it on the interior side of the door.
There is another kind of door sweep that uses multiple vinyl strips to block drafts. Somewhat more expensive, but it slips on over the bottom edge of the door and is held on with screws.

One product I have used with great success is pvc door jambs with built-in vinyl weather stripping. Mounted on the outside of your door, these door jambs can either replace your existing jambs or slide over them. The vinyl weather-stripping can be pushed up snugly against the door to keep out drafts when the door is closed. Use a circular miter saw to make the proper angled cuts so they can be mounted attractively in place. When they are in position, they can be quickly nailed or screwed into place and then painted. While I like these, there are many other similar kits that might be more suitable for your particular job.

The Laundry Center

The big energy users in the laundry area are the washer and the dryer. The typical washer uses about 0.256 kWh per load. The main cost is obviously the amount of hot water the is used during each load. Top loading washers use up to 40 gallons while front loaders use 10-24 gallons. It is easy to cut costs here by washing in warm or cold water. However, the main energy savings comes from drying your clothes. Even though modern washing machines do an excellent job of extracting the water from clothes by spinning them, they still need to be dried.

Dryers tend not to be very energy efficient because they have one job: force dry, heated air into a rotating drum to evaporate water. Dryers use ten to fifteen percent of domestic energy in the United States. Dryers also cause lint. Lint comes from fibers in your clothing coming loose as the clothes tumble across each other in a dryer’s hot drum. Lint not only collects in your dryer’s lint trap but also through the dryer’s duct work. If lint begins to obstruct or clog your dryer’s duct work, the evaporated water from your nice, clean clothes will not leave the system. If the water is trapped, it will take longer and longer for the dryer to work. Therefore, once a year, pull your dryer away from the wall, detach the duct from the bottom of your dryer, and pull out as much lint as you can from the dryer and the duct. The first time you do this, you might be surprised how much you pull out. You’ll also notice a big improvement in the time it takes for your dryer to dry your clothes.

During the cooler winter months when you are heating your home, you may notice your home feeling drier. While not always a bad thing, if your skin feels dry and itchy or if you notice your sinuses feeling raw and irritated more often, maybe your home is too dry. One way around this is to disconnect your dryer vent tubing from the duct work leading out of the house. Place a nylon sock over the end of the vent tubing and tie it in place with a long twist tie or rubber band. (Make sure you block up the vent going outside). This way, every time you run your drier, you will heat and humidify your house too.

Hanging your clothes not only save energy but also helps them last longer. Dry your clothes on a drying rack or clothes line. If you can’t hang them outside, you can hang them inside by buying a retractable clothes line (outside models are also available). Set up the line in a hallway of your home and hang your clothes to dry while you are at work. Place a large floor fan in the hallway to help circulate the air. Tumble clothes in the dryer for a few minutes until they are warm. This will relax the fibers and you’ll avoid having wrinkled or stiff clothes from hanging.

Getting into Hot Water

The most expensive part of doing laundry is using hot water. And while you might be able to switch to using warm or cold water for your laundry, having hot water for bathing or cooking or washing dishes is an important convenience. Currently, the most efficient way to heat water for a home is an on-demand water heater. While these are increasing in popularity in the US, most homes still rely on the old tank-style water heater. Basically, its a 40 or so gallon tank of water that is heated either by natural gas or electric heating elements. True, the method works well but most of the energy used by tank water heaters is just for maintaining hot water on stand-by and ready for use. That means, it’s heating water when you are asleep or at work or on vacation. So, a lot of energy is wasted. Water heater tanks are wrapped with insulation but adding more will save energy.

Put a water heater blanket around your water heater. Most water heater blankets at the home center tend to be about an inch thick so that they can be sold in one piece but not be too heavy to be held up with tape. These are made of plastic-covered fiberglass and you wrap them around your water heater. In terms of R factors of insulation (R-value indicates an insulation’s resistance to heat flow), you will adding about 3 R’s worth.

You can make water heater blanket with higher R-values. One method is to use reflective aluminum foil insulation (a.k.a. foil-clad bubble-wrap) and cut enough strips long enough to go around your water heater twice. You could then add the store-bought water heater blanket and have an R-value of more than 7.5. With this amount of insulation, you should be able to turn down your heater’s thermostat and save even more money.

For safety, do not block any of the control panels, block off the bottom, or put any of insulation across the top of your water heater. Never obstruct the pressure release valve.

Keeping your hot water hot doesn’t stop at the water heater. Insulating your hot water pipes will also save energy and cut energy costs. Consider this: each time you turn on the tap for your shower, you let the water run until it gets warm. Let’s say the pipe from you water heater to your shower is 20 feet long. Now, that might only be a quart but that can turn into a couple of hundred gallons for a family of four in the course of a year. Also, consider that after your shower, there is still hot water in the pipe. By adding insulation, that heated water will cool more slowly. If you insulate your pipes efficiently enough, heat from the water heater will be more efficiently contained in your hot water pipes. You won’t need to wait as long for that hot water, you will waste less water, and you will save more money.

Just Venting

There are several ways you can improve the efficiency of your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system (HVAC). If you have an old thermostat that isn’t programmable, turn off your furnace circuit breaker, carefully disconnect the thermostat from your wall, and throw it out.

Programmable thermostats can be found for under , are commonly found in home centers, and are easy to install. They connect to the same four wire leads that hooked up to your old thermostat. By programming temperature settings in your house to be colder during the winter or warmer during the summer when you are asleep or away, you can save energy and money.

Another easy way of increasing efficiency is to monitor your system’s air filters regularly. Depending on your lifestyle, you should change the filters regularly. If where you live tends to be dusty from busy nearby streets or if you have pets, change the filters every month. In some homes, it can be done every three months.

While disposable filters are cheaper, their expense builds quickly over time. Consider purchasing two washable air filters. Washable air filters usually cost less than and can be rinsed out in a bathtub with hot, soapy water (in the summer, I hit mine with a pressure washer). By buying two, you can swap in a clean, dry one right way when its time to change out the other dirty filter.

One way to significantly improve your HVAC is to check your duct work thoroughly to be sure the system is sealed. A home owner can save up to 0 from their annual heating and cooling costs by sealing their duct work. Start at your HVAC system and feel for moving air coming from small holes or gaps in the duct work. When you find one, put a piece of aluminum HVAC tape over the hole. Remember: The volume of air leaked adds up; the more leaks you have the less efficient your system is. Check the entire run of your duct work; feel for air leaking from ductwork seams and loose joints. Check at the corners where the metal is folded for leaks, too. Also, make sure that air intake vents are not blocked by furniture or clogged with pet fur.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy Home Energy Saver website, insulating ducts in the typical American home costs about 0. Duct insulation will pay for itself in energy savings in about two and a half years, and continue to save energy and money in years to come. Depending on your duct work, there are many ways of doing this. Some 6 inch and 8 inch diameter sheet-metal ductwork can be replaced with insulated flexible ducting that costs less than for 25 feet at a home center. If you use this, be sure to attach it so that it is snug with the supply ductwork and use aluminum HVAC tape. Other rectangular metal ductwork can be insulated with reflective aluminum foil insulation (foil-clad bubble-wrap), craft-faced fiberglass insulation, and regular gray duct tape.

Remember: you do not need to insulate the HVAC system intake ductwork, just the output side.

The Thing in the Attic

Unless your attic is finished, your attic space is essentially just outside your house’s enclosed thermal envelope. Heated air rises and conducts that heat into the structure and air of your attic and from there to space. Only one thing efficiently maintains and spreads the preferred temperature inside your house: insulation.

Heating and air conditioning account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Air sealing won’t benefit a whole lot if there is insufficient insulation for the whole house. Throughout most of the country, the US DOE recommends at least R30 (about 1 foot of blown cellulose or fiberglass) for attic insulation and a minimum of a R13 (a bit more than 3 inches of blown cellulose or fiberglass) in the walls. (http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_06.html) Unfortunately, most homes built in the past two decades are built with R13 in the walls and attic; few have R30 in the attic.

Let’s say your home has R13 of blown cellulose insulation in the attic. The attic measures 1750 square feet and we’ll assume that the insulation has settled. To bring it up to at least R30, we need to add a further 17 R-value’s of insulation to the attic. The easiest way to do this is to either apply another 5 inches of blown cellulose or put down un-faced R19 fiberglass batts (about 6 inches thick).

To figure the cost for blown cellulose to cover the attic space, multiply the square footage by the thickness. Therefore: 1750 x 5 inches (or .416 feet)= 728 cu ft. The home center sells bags that are 16 cu. ft. Divide the 728 cu. ft. by 16 cu. ft and you get 46 (16 cu ft) bags. Some home centers may include the free rental of their blowing equipment as an incentive; others may not. To make the insulation work effectively, it must be spread evenly throughout the attic so that no thin spots or hollows are formed. Also, to keep the insulation out of soffiting, dams need to be built and installed at the end of each ceiling joist (or around light fixtures) before turning on the insulation blower.

Fiberglass insulation is typically figured by square foot. Rolls of R19 come in 23 inches wide or 16 inches wide. This is so the insulation fits between the joists. Roll lengths vary, usually between 48 and 77 feet long (though batts are available). What you should watch out for is just how big the roll is. In other words can you get it through the attic’s entrance or trap door?

Once you’ve decided on what size works for you, divide the square footage (our 1750 square feet) by the length and you have the number of rolls you need. Craft-faced insulation has a paper vapor barrier facing. Because insulation is being added on top of other insulation in this case there is no need for the paper vapor barrier facing. While it is more expensive that the blown cellulose, fiberglass batts are convenient sizes that can be positioned and laid in place or trimmed as needed. And it’s always better to have extra.

Now, let’s say you’ve figured out how much you need and that you can’t afford more than at a stretch. Not to worry. The great thing about insulating is that it doesn’t need to be done all at once. You can take your time and build on it. The best way, though, is to figure out what area of your home you want to insulate first. Consider these two things: where is your thermostat located and where do you spend most of your waking hours in the home? Usually, the thermostat is in the living room and that’s were most people spend their time. The solution is simple here: lay in your first bundles of insulation over this room. But if your thermostat is in the living room and you spend your time in another room, such as a home office, you may wish to divide your insulation between the area over the thermostat and the office. In this instance, it’s best to take time to choose what priorities fit your lifestyle and how to proceed from there.

The autumn is the best time to install insulation in your attic. After all, during the summer, it could reach as high as 150°F, especially in a poorly ventilated attic. But, if you want to start saving money now during the peak heating season as well as later on during the air conditioning season, now is the best time to do the job. So, here’s some tips on how to make the job easy:

Know your attic’s layout and plan how to fit the insulation in place in advance. Buy your insulation the day before you plan to install it. Moving around and working in a cramped space takes up an awful lot of time. Start early. It’s a dirty job. Be sure to wear long sleeves and pants, gloves, safety glasses and respiratory protection against dust. Get some help so you can get in and out of the attic faster. The job will go much faster and you both will have someone to complain about the dust to. Take some 2 foot by 3 foot pieces of 3/4 inch thick plywood into the attic with you. Use them to stand or kneel on as you move through the attic. Often you’ll find it’s easier on your shins and knees to rest on the plywood rather than balancing on a joist and risk crashing through the ceiling sheetrock into the bathtub. Start at the far end and work your way back to your attic’s entrance. Insulation works best if it stays ‘fluffed up’ or not compressed. You don’t want spend time putting it down nice and neat and tight only to discover that you must trudge across it to get out of your attic. When you are done, take a warm shower to remove the fibers, dust, and dirt that adhered to your skin. When you’ve finished insulating the attic, you will also want to make sure your attic trap door seals. As mentioned, your attic is just outside your home’s thermal envelope so your attic door is really a door to the outside. Make certain that it closes snugly and seals. Use weather stripping ‘ it will make a difference.

Heat Shield to Maximum!

Your roof is a heat shield for your house. But in order for it to work at peak efficiency, it needs to be adequately ventilated. The National Roofing Contractors Association recommends 1 square foot of ventilation opening should be provided for every 150 square feet of ceiling area. (http://www.nrca.net/consumer/fyi.aspx)

If you’ve ever ventured into an attic on a sunny summer day, you know how hot it can be. Temperatures can easily reach 150°F. Trapped heat increases your air conditioner’s heat load. This raises your energy costs. Trapped heat also can damage the plywood sheathing, under-layment, shingles and personal items located inside the attic.

Roof ventilation works with two kinds of vents, an exhaust and an intake. Heated attic air flows out through a vent in the upper part of the roof. This pulls in cooler air to enter through intake vents located down in the soffiting or fascia board. Most houses built in the 1960s onwards use a combination of soffit vents and either gable vents, roof vents, or ridge venting to allow air to flow through the attic. By allowing the attic to breathe and circulate heated air out, the house is better able to let go of the heat it absorbs during the day.

Retrofitting roof vents is not as hard as it sounds. Nevertheless, it can be daunting to climb onto your roof and cut holes into it. I have found the easiest to install is the ridgevent system. Ridgevents come in metal or plastic kits. It has a hollow inside and either vents along its sides or under a flange. By straddling a slot cut though the sheathing at the roof’s ridge or peak, it allows heated attic air to leave without letting rain inside.

The actual installation technique varies slightly depending on the kit you use but very basically remove the top cap of shingles on the roof, and use a circular saw to cut a one inch wide piece of sheathing from either side of the roof’s ridge. If you’re installing full length venting, you’ll be cutting two slots the entire length of your roof so use a sharp blade and take your time. Afterwards, attach the ridge vent and caulk down the loose ends.

Now that you’ve seen what to look for in your home thermal envelope, you can start planning where to begin, whether it’s walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, doors, or the roof. And while it’s import to consider how your home works as a whole, approach improving it one step at a time. Dividing the project of sealing your home into smaller, manageable jobs around the house makes it easier to tackle. Consider that all these jobs don’t need to be done all together all at once. Tackle ridgevents one weekend, insulation another, or a new thermostat some weeknight after dinner. You should notice more energy efficiency ‘ however slight ‘ after each improvement. They will add up and you will save money and your home will feel more comfortable. But be sure to take your time preparing and researching, read the instructions, and use good tools.

Above all, be careful when considering projects that seem beyond your skill level. If in doubt, hire a professional. After all, sometimes doing-it-yourself can really do-it-to-you.

Texas Electricity Company Releases Report on the Energy Efficiency Tax Credit

Bounce Energy, a Texas electricity company, has posted an easy to read report on its website to help consumers who are considering whether or not to take advantage of the 2009-2010 Energy Efficiency Federal Income Tax Credit.

The US Government’s Energy Star Program reports that the typical American household spends approximately ,300 per year on home energy bills. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that homeowners can typically save up to 20% of heating and cooling costs (or up to 10% of total energy costs – or 0) by air sealing their homes through caulking and sealing drafts. Furthermore, a home owner can save up to 0 from their annual heating and cooling costs by sealing leaks and insulating their duct work.

So, for less than 0 and just a few weekend hours of sealing holes and cracks or tape over leaky duct work, a homeowner can potentially save up to 0 from their annual heating and cooling costs.

In fact, any energy efficiency improvements immediately lower energy bills and will pay for themselves over time. This is especially true when considering the major hardware components of a home:

Drafty windows or doors that fail to close snugly and allow water to penetrate and rot the sills Water heaters with sediment-filled or corroded tanks that will leak and fail Heating and air conditioning systems (HVAC) built with inefficient heat-exchangers and high-wattage electronics that waste energy and cause heat Wood-burning stoves or furnaces (or other “biomass fuel”) that burn poorly, heat poorly, and release waste gases Roofs that trap heat and increase the cooling load Not enough attic or wall insulation to maintain the home’s temperature

For the report, they cite an example of a modest starter home: a single-story 3-bedroom 1750 sq. foot home built in 2008 on the Gulf Coast. By installing Energy Star-rated hardware upgrades such as new triple-pane insulating low-E, argon gas wood-framed windows, a whole-house on-demand water heater, and adding 6 inches of attic insulation, a homeowner can recoup 56% from their yearly energy costs. By adding in the energy tax credit, the owner can receive nearly ,000 on a 50 investment.

Energy efficient features will also enhance the market value and saleability of a home and –most importantly – improve its comfort and livability.

The 2009 and 2010 Energy Efficiency Tax Credit for home improvements is a tax credit of 30% or ,500 for energy efficient improvements that consumers make to their existing home. In order to claim the credit, the energy efficient improvements must be qualifying Energy Star-rated products and placed in service from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010.

According to the Energy Star website (www.energystar.gov):

Basically you can spend up to ,000 during this 2 year period on a single or multiple improvements, and get 30% or ,500 (30% of ,000 = ,500) back as a tax credit. If you get the entire ,500 credit in 2009, then you can’t get anything additional in 2010. The ,500 tax credit does not double for married people filing jointly… unless both spouses owned and lived apart in separate main homes.

The tax credit does not include things like caulking and weather stripping. Rather, the tax credit aids in replacing those major hardware components of a home such as windows, doors, insulation, roofs, HVAC, non-solar water heaters, or biomass (usually wood) stoves. Some installation costs are covered, such as non-solar water heaters and heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems (HVAC).

In addition to the credit for existing homes, there is a credit with no final cost limit for more complex yet far-efficient projects that promote energy independence: geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, electricity-producing solar panels (PV), fuel cells, and small wind energy systems. Projects like these will receive a credit of 30% of their total cost and have until 2016 to be placed in service.

The Energy Star website has wealth of information as well as links to other government websites about all the improvements covered in Bounce Energy’s report. Remember these are all upgrades that keep saving money each year. Some can be improved on further, one step at a time.

So, is the Energy Tax Credit worth it?
Bounce Energy says, “Yes, the Energy Tax Credit is worth it because an energy efficiency improvement will save energy and money and make your home more comfortable. As you can see there are many, many ways to capitalize on energy efficiency improvements to your home; from the weekend with a caulking gun to a four week wind turbine adventure with a 60 foot crane. You might even become so energy efficient you’ll be energy self-sufficient.”

More Energy Efficiency Articles

Efficient, high-capacity storage is a major missing factor in cost effective, sustainable electricity generation. Massive amounts of heat and light from the sun bombard the earth all day long, raging winds sweep over the land and sea, and yet the full potential of this energy remains inaccessible to us. Although we can capture some of this awesome power, the amount depends to some extent on the whim of nature, but more on the ability of our technology to capture and store energy from these bountiful sources.

In order to make solar and wind energy reliable and competitive with traditional methods of electricity generation, we need to harness as much energy as possible when it is available and store it for later use. There are a few ways of doing this, batteries being the most viable.

Current Battery Technology and Applications

When a battery is connected to a device or circuit, electrons are allowed to flow from the negative to the positive terminal of the battery. Inside, two chemical reactions are taking place as the electrons are released from one material and absorbed by another. Feeding electricity into the battery reverses these reactions, recharging the battery.

As the materials inside the battery break down over time, it loses efficiency and power. A typical deep-cycle battery, one which is designed to be significantly depleted and recharged repeatedly, will last longest if it is rarely discharged beyond 50% capacity.

Lead-acid batteries are typical for many deep-cycle applications, including home electricity storage. Electrons travel between two lead plates which are submerged in acid. These batteries are relatively cheap, efficient, and have a good energy-to-weight ratio. However, they require a fair amount of maintenance-their fluid levels drop as they recharge, and need to be replenished. They might also leak from time to time.

Absorbent Glass Mat batteries-AGM for short-are a newer, slightly more expensive alternative. They last about the same amount of time, but are designed so that the liquid component of the battery is stored in a sort of glass sponge. Gas circulates within the battery as it is charged, and the battery is sealed shut. There is no need to replenish the fluid, and even if the battery is dropped and breaks, no acid will ever spill.

Typical home renewable energy setups will use a battery bank. Many individual batteries are wired together in a way that brings their storage and output capacity up to a level that is useful for home applications. Battery banks take up a lot of space, involve a lot of wiring, and suffer problems related to the way batteries work when tied together this way. A battery bank is only as good as its weakest cell, and works best if all the batteries in it are of the same type, manufacture, and age. In other words, if one battery goes bad, the whole set needs to be replaced. Also, the batteries will discharge differently depending on their location in the circuit; some will wear out more quickly, reducing the lifespan of the whole system.

New Battery Options Poised to Revolutionize Renewable Energy

Mankind’s need for energy is often at odds with how nature provides it; we consume electricity to light and heat our homes when the sun is gone from the sky. The use of renewable energy right now is limited by our capacity to store it. However, there are several new types of experimental battery rapidly approaching full-scale availability. These new batteries could potentially be used in a wider variety of applications, giving us several options for improving the efficiency of our electrical system and allowing a greater reliance on renewable energy sources.

Salt Lake City’s Ceramtek, the R&D division of leading ceramics and components manufacturer CoorsTek, has developed an astonishing new battery that they believe will revolutionize home electricity generation. Their battery operates below 100 degrees Celsius, has a ten year lifespan, and is only the size of refrigerator. It could provide enough energy to run every appliance and light every bulb in a very large house simultaneously for four hours, if you wanted to do that. And it will deliver this electricity at less than half the current price offered by power companies.

Ceramtek’s battery uses a new type of ceramic membrane which greatly reduces the battery’s internal resistance. This means much less potential energy is wasted as heat, and the battery can operate at a temperature where sodium remains in its solid state. Coupled with wind turbines and/or photovoltaic panels, they could increase a home’s energy storage capacity to the point where power from the grid is no longer necessary. And at the price predicted by Ceramtek-around $2000 per unit-putting a battery in every home could be much more cost effective than replacing or continuing to maintain our nation’s aging electrical grid.

Dr. Donald Sadoway at MIT recently demonstrated a battery where the electrodes-the electron producing and absorbing components-are liquid metals. This battery can absorb ten times the amount of charge as a conventional battery. However, the use of high temperature materials makes this type of battery less than ideal for household use. More likely, it would be used for grid augmentation. That is, utility companies would generate and store electricity on a massive scale, with solar or wind forms. Large batteries would store the energy and release it into the grid when demand spikes above availability.

This type of grid-level application is already underway at Luverne, Minnesota. Xcel Energy, the largest provider of wind-generated electricity in the United States, is testing a facility that uses a battery bank the size of two tractor-trailers to store electricity generated by a huge wind farm. The batteries use liquid sodium and sulfur, and came from a Japanese manufacturer. Xcel claims this is the first attempt to store renewable energy at such a large scale. Their facility could radically alter the way we use our electrical grid.

Two Models for Renewable Energy (R)evolution

It’s obvious to most of us by now that our nation’s approach to electricity generation needs a massive overhaul. In addition to our unsustainable dependence on poisonous fossil fuels and nuclear materials, we rely on an aging electrical grid, cobbled together ad hoc as our energy demands have increased throughout the 20th century and into the 21st. The technologies outlined above will allow us greater flexibility in the pursuit of our energy goals. Two approaches recommend themselves; we can continue to retrofit the grid to keep up with increased energy demands and new technology, as suggested by the current administration, or we can move toward small-scale, widely dispersed home generation.

The main advantage of the electrical grid is its ability to provide instantaneously for increased electrical demand (in most regions). At present, the batteries that are available can’t meet all the energy demands of a household. Sometimes a home can get by on the amount of energy provided by its systems, but it will still need to draw from the electrical grid when its reserves run low.

However, the grid itself is largely composed of outdated, arcane technology that will fail sooner or later. Although it is widely dispersed, it is a centralized system; even outfitted with “smart” technology that can better control the flow of electricity, any kind of failure, whether natural or due to external attack, can have widespread consequences.

Personally, I prefer the attitude of the battery developers at Ceramtek. Home energy storage takes the power out of the hands of utility companies, some of the most bloated monopolies still around, and puts it in the hands of ordinary people. It operates at a low temperature, so it is safe enough to have in any basement, and since it is one cell, and by replacing battery banks, it eliminates the need for specialized electrical knowledge. It is both consumer friendly and more true to the American value of self-reliance. It makes us independent and insulates us from grid failures.

Ultimately, the model that prevails will be determined by several factors. No regulatory framework yet exists for the type of energy storage applications discussed here, so the governments of individual countries may very well have a deciding role in how we store our renewable energy. Here in the U.S., it means all sorts of lobbies will have their fingers in the pie. What’s more, each product will have to compete in the marketplace. Once these batteries become available, those that are cheapest, most reliable, and safest may hope to dominate. And since this technology could shift our entire energy paradigm, unpredictable factors may come into play as well.

Please share your opinion in a comment. I’m a writer, not an electrician, and this is far from the final word. What sort of approach will better serve us and our environment? How will this technology impact our way of life? Tell us what you think!

Sources:

• General battery information – http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Cycles%20vs%20Life
• Example solar system – http://www.wagonmaker.com/newbatt.html
• MIT liquid battery – http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/2607/80/
• Ceramtek battery – http://www.heraldextra.com/news/article_b0372fd8-3f3c-11de-ac77-001cc4c002e0.html

I’ve come across 2 different sites today which help drive the point home for me that lots of individual actions or behaviors really add up.

First see this short video on YouTube which shows the amount of Global Air Traffic in a 24 hour period. It is amazing to see!

Secondly, to help understand how much energy our chosen lifestyles consume and to help understand the math behind some of these behaviors, David MacKay, a professor of physics at the University of Cambridge recently published a very enlightening book called, “Sustainable Energy – Without the Hot Air.” Also see: http://edition.cnn.com/2009/TECH/science/05/13/mackay.energy/index.html. This book offers a very accessible, must-read analysis, for anyone seeking a deeper understanding of these issues.

More than 60% of the world’s population now live in urban environments. This figure is likely to grow to 80% by the year 2050. Many of us, who live in urban environments, take it for granted that we will continue to enjoy the large variety and plentiful quantities of fresh vegetables and fruits that we are able to pick up and put in our shopping carts in our local urban supermarkets, without thinking about the amounts of energy required to get them there. Also, by the year 2050, there may be another 3 billion people demanding these foods.

It is doubtful that there will be enough arable land to support these people, since we already have put 80% of all available arable land on the planet to use, and we seem to be good at reducing large amounts of such land to waste, through poor agricultural practices. The trend towards global warming won’t make the prospect for being able to grow more food any better. Global warming may make deserts out of what is now arable land, as annual rainfall patterns shift, and available fresh water supplies diminish. Current commercial agricultural methods and supply patterns also may not be sustainable.

It has been estimated that one fifth of all the fossil fuels consumed in the U.S. go into agriculture, both for producing the food (e.g., tractors, plows), synthesizing fertilizer (e.g., using hydrogen extracted from natural gas to produce nitrate fertilizers), and then transporting the food to far distant locations where they are consumed. In the U.S., we enjoy fresh produce in wintertime from Florida and California, as well as from Chile and other South American countries, who have their Summer while we slog through the ice and snow of Winter. Can we continue to enjoy these luxuries?

Another thing that many people may not realize is that the fresh produce we now consume may not even be as nutritious and safe as that which was produced in the past. Today’s commercial methods of growing and the varieties of crops grown optimize profitability by limiting losses from spoilage and transportation stress, at the expense of taste and nutrition. Our veggies simply may not be pulling as many minerals out of depleted soils as they used to, and the recent outbreaks of illness due to e-coli contamination shed doubt on our abilities to keep our food supplies safe, especially where manure is used to fertilize. An answer to the declining quality of fresh produce, and the increasing costs of growing and transporting it to urban population centers, is to produce the food right inside those urban areas, through what has been termed vertical farming. This would save energy otherwise needed to transport the food, and would make it easier to ensure the safety and quality of the food.

Vertical farming is the production of food in large multi-level urban buildings, through the use of hydroponics – or, growing plants without soil. This approach to agriculture can make much more efficient use of increasingly scarce fresh water and energy resources. Also, it could make it easier to combat insect pests and control plant diseases, because the food would be produced in a controlled environment. The nutritive quality of the produce would be ensured by closely controlling the mix of minerals and trace elements used to fertilize the plants. A large energy savings is achieved, by not having to transport the food over thousands of miles, and losses of nutritive quality are minimized by getting the food to consumers before its quality begins to decline in transportation and storage. The urban vertical farming enterprise also would provide local employment, and make local economies more self-sufficient.

The produce from vertical farming would essentially be organic, but perhaps not literally so, according to today’s understanding of that often misused terminology. Today, conventional organic food production often means that the food is produced without the use of chemical pesticides or artificial fertilizers. It’s true that vertical farming would be done without the use of chemical pesticides, but the way nutrients are provided in hydroponics growing systems may not always be considered strictly organic. That is because the nutrients used in hydroponics systems must be soluble in water.

In the natural growing cycle, plants must find the basic minerals required for growth (i.e., nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium – the familiar N-P-K combination listed on most packages of commercial fertilizer) in soluble form in the soil. The plants can take these chemicals into their roots, only if they are dissolved in water in the soil. The plants then use these basic nutrients to grow the stems, leaves, and fruits, that we eat. Unused portions of the plants are allowed to decompose in the soil, as natural compost. Wastes from animals who consume the plants (e.g., manure) also decompose and result in natural compost that eventually is used by plants.

In organic farming, the major nutrients are made available to the plants in the form of natural or processed compost, but the plants cannot use this compost until it is sufficiently decayed to release the basic N-P-K substances into soluble form. The primary benefit of organic growing is that the N-P-K nutrients, that are provided by farmers, in the form of compost, are locked up, as complex insoluble organic molecules that cannot be easily washed away when there are heavy rains. Instead, the basic N-P-K minerals are released gradually, as the plant material decays, so there is a steady supply of required minerals for the plants over an extended period. This limits the amount of mineral nutrients that can be run off, doing damage to the environment elsewhere, by polluting streams, rivers, bays, and oceans.

In hydroponics, providing the N-P-K minerals directly, in water soluble form, does not pose a threat to the environment, because large amounts of water are not released to the environment. The unused water in hydroponics is recycled. The only water that is released to the environment is from transpiration of the plants into the atmosphere. Even this water can be recaptured and reused in the closed system of a commercial hydroponics facility. Therefore, the use of mineral fertilizers in hydroponics is entirely acceptable, from an environmental point of view.

It’s true that hydroponics systems can be run using nutrients obtained entirely from the decay of organic materials, in which case, the produce from the hydroponics system would be considered totally “organic,” but there is no real incremental benefit to either the consumer of the produce or the environment, in so doing.

Commercial scale vertical farming projects are now being planned, but none are yet in place in American cities. The first 30-story vertical farming building is now being planned for Las Vegas. Why am I talking about this now? It’s a matter of attitude. The reaction of some people to the idea of their food being produced in urban “factories” may turn them off, even though the food produced through vertical farming promises to be more nutritious, tasty, and carbon-neutral than the food they get at their local supermarket, or even at their local farm stands during the Summer. If you think seriously about the prospect of vertical farming now, you will be able to better appreciate the development of this kind of agriculture when its produce does come to a local supermarket near you.

There are some issues that I would like to see resolved before vertical farming is implemented widely. One detail that I would like to see more well-defined is the question of where the inorganic materials would come from that are needed for the hydroponics nutrients in vertical farming. Much of the nitrogen fertilizer produced for conventional agriculture today is manufactured by combining the nitrogen in the air with natural gas, which is mostly methane. This process results in a significant release of carbon into the atmosphere. However, research is now underway to provide nitrogen fertilizer through the use of biogas, from recycled farm waste. This would improve the efficiency of vertical farming and make it more carbon-neutral.

Sustainability would be a prime objective of any vertical farming enterprise. The folks who are planning these facilities certainly have this in mind, but I would like to see some more of the details and computer modeling results that must be going into this initiative. The end result should be something like what we would be doing to sustain a colony on the moon or another planet, where vertical farming is but one element of an urban system that not only grows close to 100% of its own food, but also recycles 100% of its own wastes.

Another aspect of vertical farming, that poses questions, is what conditions would exist for any domestic animals that would be raised for food in vertical farming facilities. Current plans for vertical farming also include the raising of animals for meat, like chickens, ducks, geese, fish, crustaceans (e.g., lobsters, crabs), and mollusks (e.g., squids, clams, oysters). Raising some of the higher order animals in questionable factory conditions could give rise to issues regarding their humane treatment.

Some of you may not want to wait for local production of high-quality produce through hydroponics, in large vertical farming facilities. In that case, you might want to consider raising your own food using hydroponics, right in your basement or hobby greenhouse, or even your outdoor garden. It turns out that this can be very practical. We will discuss these applications in upcoming articles.

Most individuals see recycling as their own responsibility, either through voluntary action, or, in some jurisdictions, in accordance with the law. But in either case most recycling programs are geared toward the consumer handling their own waste.

And so it is for the producers. Manufacturers generally view safe environmental practices at their own production level – regulated plant emissions, disposal or storage of hazardous waste, anti-dumping laws, etc. But after the product leaves the plant, its post-production life is out of their hands. This is the norm in the U.S, even though other potentially impactful phases — packaging and labeling, transportation and shipping, and, of course, disposal — all pose their own unique environmental threats.

Thus, the final resting place of products will be determined by the end user, the consumer.

This current system, however, is not even close to fully addressing the problem in this age of “going green.”

According to the EPA, the U.S. generates some 251 millions tons of Municipal Waste and recycles only 82 millions tons of it, or 32.5%. About 530,000 tons of this is Household Hazardous Waste, which consists of many environmentally toxic chemicals. These, of course, include the obvious culprits — old solvents, paints, pesticides, fertilizers, poisons, etc. But household kitchen and bathroom cleaners comprise a significant portion of this waste. According to the Clean Water Fund, “the average American uses 40 pounds of toxic cleaning products, throwing away twelve percent of their leftovers and pouring an average of 32 million pounds down the drain”. This twelve percent referred to, outside of what goes down the drain, goes into landfills, where it becomes a ticking time bomb for environmental entry.

So if consumer responsibility for product recycling doesn’t work, is there a better way?

Although manufacturers cannot take responsibility for the actions of their customers, they can take stewardship of their products and minimize or eliminate their harmful environmental impacts, throughout a product’s life cycle, from manufacturing, right down to the post consumer phase. This method of foresight is known as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR).

Globally speaking, EPR is not a new concept.

In 1975, the Swedish Government made a formal statement concerning EPR: “The responsibility, that the waste generated during the production processes could be taken care of in a proper way, from an environmental and resource-saving point of view, should primarily be of the manufacturer. Before the manufacturing of a product is commenced it should be known how the waste which is a result of the production process should be treated, as well as how the product should be taken care of when discarded.”

The actual term EPR was coined by Swedish professor of environmental economics, defining it quite simply as “the extension of the responsibility of producers for the environmental impacts of their products to the entire product life cycle, and especially for their take-back, recycling, and disposal.” In this scenario, the cost of recovery of a product is shifted to the private sector and away from government programs, so the producer’s role includes the costs of recovery, which forces industries to incorporate these costs into their overall implementation plan for their products.

This concept has swept all over Europe, with Germany taking the lead with its Packaging Ordinance of 1991, which requires producers to manage packaging waste and eliminates government money for this purpose. Over the next four years, use of packaging decreased by about 1 million tons, as producers minimized their packaging, its weight, and used more concentrates, saving tax payer money and reducing environmental impact.

Canada has taken great strides with EPR, with much government encouragement, support and incentives to various industries, with certain industries and manufacturers operating with such programs in place in all 10 of its provinces.

The U.S., however, has lagged far behind in promoting this concept. Although deposit return bottles have provided for the take back and reuse of glass containers for over a century, and some of the larger printer companies pay for courier pick-up and delivery back to factories of empty toner cartridges for reuse, In most areas government responsibility for waste is still the norm. Hawaii, Maine and California have taken great strides, however, in implementing legislation to enforce EPR principles, and indeed, in today’s ever growing environmentally conscious society, there may be much more activity on the horizon.

Household Hazardous waste is perhaps one of the more difficult categories to envision fitting into an EPR program. A liquid’s packaging, a spray bottle, for example, can certainly be placed in a recycled bin. But, as cited before, if 12% of HHW is thrown away, that means that its packaging is being tossed with it, so what is left is in the bottle goes to the landfill. How can a company possibly take back the liquid remains from millions of spray bottles? The answer – provide a means for the customer to use it all in the first place.

The Spray-All Corporation has provided a unique method for both chemical and bottle manufacturers to partner in EPR together. The Spray-All spray bottle uses 100% of the liquid inside. Simply by using the bottle, household cleaner manufactures eliminate remaining chemicals entering the environment from landfills. The last few drops in these bottles do add up to great quantities in the aggregate: ½ teaspoon left in 1 million bottles is the equivalent of 651 gallons!

While the role of the manufacturers of these bottles may be more passive, it represents a collaborative effort to eliminate waste, and can offer these bottles in durable, re-useable, and, ultimately, recyclable forms.

The Spray-All Corporation is a start-up company, operating on a small scale, but intends to voluntarily adopt aggressive EPR strategies. Among its corporate goals include exploring a take back system for spray bottles and their reuse and/or ultimate recycle.